INTERVIEW WITH FOUNDERS JULIEN AND AMANDINE AZENCOTT
About the brand Codage Paris and the successful work among siblings Azencott
What inspired you both to get into the cosmetics industry?
We were immersed in the field of medicine from an early age as we grew up in a family of doctors, pharmacists and dermatologists. When we were children, we used to play in the backroom of our uncle’s pharmacy – called the officine. Indeed, when other kids were playing doctors, we were playing “pharmacists”, pretending to create miracle potions. Fascinated by health and with an engrained understanding of natural beauty, we began envisioning a way to merge our interests with our lifelong knowledge. After developing “Dr. brands” for dermatologists and skincare lines for other brands for several years, we decided to concentrate all our know how and true expertise into our own brand, CODAGE Paris. That’s how we got into the cosmetics industry and that the whole story started...
How did Codage Paris start?
Confronted with an ever-expanding market of cosmetic supplies and convinced that each skin is unique and thereby deserves its own particular treatment, we decided to revive the time-old tradition of service and reinstate it into the heart of cosmetology. We founded CODAGE together 8 years ago. As heirs of the French traditional pharmacy and passionate about formulas, we never felt aligned with the approach of traditional cosmetic brands and we wanted to revive the dialogue practiced by the apothecaries of yore, when anyone could walk-in and discuss their way of life, needs and desires with an expert and in return be provided with a specifically bespoke formula. The excellence of the formulas would rest in the innate understanding of individual skin and the knowledge of all the ingredients’ active properties as well as the precision of their dosage. To miracle recipes, we preferred the transparency of what compose a product, and we wanted to re-inject the service within the essential stages of consumption: the understanding of its needs (skin diagnosis) as well as in the formulation and preparation of its skincare products. Thus CODAGE was born – a contemporary French House of Cosmetology. Its know-how focusing on a nutritive vision of beauty that goes beyond the aesthetic, to encompass overall health and well- being.
What sets Codage Paris apart from other skincare brands?
CODAGE is dedicated to design the very best formulas for beauty, depending on each individual. CODAGE focuses on YOU, as you become the actor and co-creator of your skincare routine. We are a contemporary and honest brand. We want you to understand what you put on your skin and the results you shall expect. We want you to decode each formula, to understand how it is composed and the actives within it (and being able to trace them).
Each individual formula at CODAGE is based on a nutritive vision of beauty. We believe that beauty is a personal journey towards health and well being that begins with nourishing your skin. The skin is a living organism that needs to be properly nourished. Its needs change every day and are influenced by seasons, your environments and your life rhythm. Since complexions reflect overall health, we have created skincare and most particularly serums that feed the skin so it always looks its most radiant, youthful best. Whether it is showing the effects of a common cold, poor diet, seasonal changes, hormonal fluctuations, lack of sleep, overexposure to the sun or environmental aggressions, CODAGE has a personalized remedy made to address every major skin concern. All CODAGE Paris serums can be combined and mixed together - with a “mix & match” approach - to respond to your skin’s primary and occasional needs related to the constant changes of modern life.
“Each beauty is unique. Each deserves its own formula, its solution, its Codage”.
Also, all our products are formulated, made and packaged by us in our own laboratory located in the South of France, near Nice. We are proud to promote our French know-how and we favor small productions to sell innovative and fresh products directly from our lab. It is a strong advantage as we control the whole fabrication process, the high quality of our formulas and we have a 360° vision on our products. This enables us to select best in class active ingredients in the world to compose our nutri-elements. We are very flexible and we update them constantly with the latest innovations to always guarantee the most efficient formulas.
Moreover, the French spirit of design embodies each CODAGE formula, carefully crafted with the texture, sensuality and refinement of haute couture. The same way designers travel the world to source their fabrics; we travel the world to source our ingredients. We search the world over not just for the right raw materials, but also the highest quality the industry has to offer. Since we believe our customers “wear” our products, the texture, fit and feel are paramount to everything we create.
What is Codage Paris’ brand philosophy?
“With CODAGE, you change what you put on your skin the way you change the food you eat and clothes you wear because needs vary from day to day.”
We believe that the skin is a living organism that needs to be properly nourished. Its needs change every day and are influenced by the season, your environment, your life rhythm. CODAGE addresses all skin types, whether you are a man or a woman, for all ages, in providing daily nutrition to the skin. Our expertise is based on solving individual beauty issues, having a perfect knowledge of our active ingredients properties, and being precise with our dosage. All our compositions are best adapted to the skin’s requirements. We want to celebrate the uniqueness of each and all in formulating serums according to individual needs and this goes beyond flesh, moments and lives.
We have created the “nutri-elements”. Inspired from the Periodic table of elements, they can be defined as cocktails of active ingredients that work synergistically to best target and answer a specific skin need. We dose and combine them to bring skin all nutrients essential to its proper functioning. Each combination of “nutri-elements” composes your product formula and builds thus a code or “codage” in French.
With such dynamic, we developed a very strong expertise in serums that we consider as true dietary supplements of your skin. They provide very high concentration of active nutrients and have the ability to penetrate into the deepest layers of the skin to answer each skin’s nutritional need. We do work for customers in search for a true “meaning”, for making things the right way, for transparency, efficiency. We do work for those who are disappointed by the ultra-marketing approach of the leading players ... Just as people are now looking for premium products that offer true traceability such as food or ready-to-wear, we simply address to this same evolution of mentalities and habits of consumption.
What things do you consider when creating a new product?
When creating a new product, we consider of course the market and trends, but first of all: the consumer. We want to offer a solution to everyone and to be fully transparent to create a trust relationship between each consumer and us.
We focus all our attention on the formula. Our objective is clear: the quest for maximal efficiency. We select rigorously each active ingredient among the most innovative ones in the market and whose efficiency has been proved by in-vitro and in-vivo tests. We assemble each ingredient with care in our lab to create fresh, clean and highly efficient formulas with a comfortable, non-sticky texture and a discreet and nice fragrance. We offer expert skincare and we want our products to be the most efficient for consumers. If not, we won’t make it, as we want to make a difference.
Also, we are a contemporary brand. We are honest and transparent about our ingredients’ choices. Our formulas are clean, natural and not tested on animals. We are vegan and cruelty free . We do not use any paraben, phtalates, petrochemicals, mineral oils, etc.
What challenges do you face when creating a new product?
To always provide the best product, with the highest levels of efficacy. At CODAGE, we do not want to focus on one star ingredient only, but we want our formula to incorporate all the best actives focusing on specifics actions, individually and in synergy. For instance, our custom-made serums – myCODAGE – can have up to 90% of pure active ingredients. Those levels are tremendous, to provide best results. But challenges linked to product’ stabilization, overall fragrance, color, etc are numerous. Also, we are a unisex brand, so when creating a product, we are focusing on satisfying both man and woman.
There are so many trends in skincare that come and go. Which are here to stay, and which would?
As you said, they are so many trends ... but more than trends, we prefer to focus on what we truly believe to be the right things, the best solutions for our customers. This is why CODAGE has been the pioneer in our industry, in customization with myCODAGE and its Haute Couture offer. So yes, we will keep with offering custom-made, personalized products. CODAGE was the precursor.
Trends fighting pollution make a lot of sense. The pollution causes damages on the skin (acceleration of skin aging, inflammation, clogged pores, dehydration...). At CODAGE, we have taken this into account and 8 products of our range have anti-pollution properties: Micellar Water, Day Cream, Night Cream, our 2 Skin Care Waters, Fall in Love, Spring Break and Summer Time serums. Then most of our products are formulated with antioxidants also as oxidative stress is to us one of the main cause of aging.
Also, Bacteria / Microbiota: we work in close collaboration with R&D labs that focus on the study and growth of bacteria as to incorporate them or their substances into cosmetic active ingredients. Talking about bacteria that are present in the nature but mostly now the bacteria that live on our skin. In fact, bacteria are the largest part of our skin flora, or microbiota - also called skin microbiome. They are more numerous than the cells of our body and weigh heavier than our brains. We now know that in the company of yeasts and other microorganisms, they are useful to maintain and enhance beautiful skin. Of course not all of them but we have plenty of them to study and discover great properties.
What are your thoughts on the ‘Clean Beauty’ movement?
To us, as said, making things the right way is crucial. We are pursuing excellence of formulation, aiming for efficacy, safety and naturality. Reason why we are vegan, cruelty free, with safe formula, natural ingredients mostly, not using parabens, phthalates, petrochemicals, mineral oils, etc. So yes, we are strongly convinced that customers shall be caution about what skincare they use, and what those are made of.
In every situation knowledge is power, and the clean beauty movement is no different. For CODAGE, having customers educated about their skincare is key – reason why we wanted to provide them with transparent products, detailed with the ingredients we use, the results we can expect, etc. We provide our customers with as much information as they need regarding our formula, because we have nothing to hide. And we believe in educating them so they can take the control.The same way people realized that what they eat is important, it shall be the same with what they put on their skin.
However, Green does not equal clean nor safe. Above all we prefer transparency instead of a label as no option is 100% perfect. This is an example but this means we need to focus on the formula, not the trend or what people are claiming. For instance, many goes for mineral oils on their face, saying this is natural and efficient. True, but this also can create allergies for some skins, reason why we do not use it for our face products. All essential oils contains many allergens so we don't use them in our facial products neither as we want to make sure we can provide safety of use for even the sensitive skins.
People are going for organic only, but do they really know why? And what this means exactly? At CODAGE, We have a charter which defines our « no list », meaning the ingredients we refuse to use, such as ingredients of animal origin, parabens, mineral oils ... Also when we use a vegetal extract,we always try to go for an organic extract when it is available. On the other hand, some organic charters exclude products that are not harmful to us, nor pose us a problem. As soon as we can, we increase the proportion of natural and organic in our product – but we also focus on efficacy. Lastly, we prefer to invest in our formula and actives, rather than in a label for now, which is more a marketing tool.
To summarize: yes the clean beauty movement is great but it has to be educated and not led by trends.
Tell me a little bit about MyCodage, what is it?
myCODAGE is an exclusive service of custom formulation and preparation of advanced nutrition skincare. After a comprehensive skin diagnosis, we develop your skincare formula that precisely answers all your needs: choice of the texture, the active ingredients and their concentration. It is an efficient, intelligent and all-in-one product that makes revive the service of magisterial preparation from the French traditional pharmacy. We take personalization even further engraving your initials and your unique Codage (=formula) on your bottle and packaging. Every CODAGE formula is an intricate “code” that uses precise dosages and synergistic combinations to target the specific individual needs. This code is based on the assemblage of different “nutri- elements”. Each Nutri-Element is a “cocktail” of an average of 3 active ingredients with a synergistic action. Given specific skin needs, Nutri-Elements are dosed and assembled to form a unique “codage”, to reveal the product formula and finally meet customers’ every need.
So, in myCODAGE, our Haute-Couture offer, we select after a precise diagnostic which Nutri- Elements you need and in which dosage. This fresh and on-demand serum is directly made in our Laboratory and sent in one week to the customer.
We also developed an alternative to this ultra-premium offering: an exclusive CODAGE SERUMS COLLECTION. Here, customer can choose its skincare to prioritize and tackle targeted needs linked to his/her lifestyle and environmental realms. It is a system of ultra-targeted, highly specialized, concentrated staples you trust like a black turtleneck, white T-shirt or pair of jeans. We also proposed complimentary serums, Special Editions driven by season, taking lifestyle, weather and environment into consideration. Thanks to our “mix & match” approach, your skincare moves according to your daily needs and became totally personalized.
CODAGE Paris is revolutionizing the world of beauty care by making it possible for the first time for each person to create his or her own daily skincare routine according to his or her skin’s unique and changing needs.
Why did you feel the need to create unisex products?
We celebrate the uniqueness of each, no matter if you are a man or a woman, no matter your age, your ethnicity, ... Each skin is unique and deserves a specific skincare. That’s why we formulate our products to answer all skin needs in a targeted way. More than the sex, we take into account all elements that influence how our skin behaves like the skin type, the age but also the environment, the season, and the way of life. Man need to take care of his skin as well as woman, so why not offering him also the best cosmetics.
If you two weren’t working in the cosmetics industry, where would you be working?
To be honest, no idea. This journey has been such an evidence for both of us, that we never really thought about it.We are both convinced to do the right things, for us personally and for our consumers. What more to ask for?!
What are the benefits, and negatives, of working with a sibling?
To us, working as sibling is clearly one of our strengths. Today, after 10 years of working together, we only see benefits. For real. True, at first, we could quote some “negatives”. Working with your brother or sister is different from working with a traditional “colleague”. You do not have to be “corporately polite” all the time. When creating the brand and facing lots of challenges, stress could make us talk to each other in a friendly but not appropriate language.Things you would never do with your colleagues.
But today, both of us have specific missions and role in the company. And working with your sibling is great, as you have full trust and confidence. We now exactly what the other is thinking, at any time. We are almost as twins, we know each other perfectly. And we must admit that living this amazing CODAGE adventure in family is extremely rewarding – when we look back, and see what we accomplished already – and when we look upfront, and see what is to come, we are both very proud and thankful to live it together. And because we are a family business, each new employee entering the company is really becoming and feeling as a true member of our family – the CODAGE Family.
What are your personal favourites from the Codage line?
Really difficult to only choose some favorite products... are they are changing from day to day, or weakly, depending on what our skins need...But if we were to mention some, we would say : Our personal favorites are: myCODAGE bespoke face serum, Serum n°01, Serum n°03, Serum n°06, Night Cream, Moisturizing Concentrated Body Milk « Moisturizing », Micellar Water.
MyCODAGE – as this is such an intelligent product, targeting our specific needs, at a very specific moment. We do change its formula depending on where we are traveling, our stress level, the season, etc. Cannot miss it, especially with the lifes we are living.
Serum n°01 is our “Intense Moisturizing” serum, the most fundamental one that everyone should carry in their bathroom. It is our best seller, it has a super light texture yet it contains high concentrations of certified organic hyaluronic acids of both low and high molecular weights to efficiently hydrate all different skin layers. It includes also unique soothing and antioxidant ingredients to become your skin super hero treatment. I’ll recommend this one, my eyes closed, to anyone.
SERUM N°03 – Radiance & Energy. This elixir detoxifies the skin and erase all signs of skin fatigue thanks to its powerful anti-oxidant, detoxifying and radiance actives. Ideal after a night out, during a stressful week at work, or to help with a change in season for a skin full of vitality!
Then another one we really love and that has been also largely acclaimed and most precisely by the beauty editor in chief of VOGUE (that said that in 20 years of carrier had never found such efficient product as we were able to remove her dark spots in 3 weeks time only) is our most prestige formula, our SERUM N°06 – ANTI-AGING SUPREME. It is a true concentrate of most advanced anti- aging technologies that prevents and corrects wrinkles, fine lines, dark spots and loss of elasticity, firmness and density.
The Night Cream is also one of our best seller. This rich and tender emulsion activates the skin’s natural purification metabolism and regenerates dermal stem cell activity, powerfully stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis. This cream obtains the GRAZIA beauty awards in 2013, impossible to don’t fall in love with it.
Our unique Micellar Water – so called our “Miracle Water”. It is a true cleansing care product that all in once cleanses, removes make-up, purifies, moisturizes and protects the skin against pollution. It can be used effectively alone or to enhance cleansing (with milks, oils, foams, etc.) Then, for the body; Our Concentrated Body Milk Moisturizing – it is truly a serum for the body, that does the job of a serum and a cream, all at once. Its formula is highly concentrated in hyaluronic acid, which has plumping and moisturizing powers, and is enriched with shea butter and baobab oil for intensely nourished skin. Suitable for all skin types, recommended for dry skin.
What’s in the future for Codage?
So many things, so please, stay tuned !But clearly: We will keep on expanding our international presence, opening new territories. Today, CODAGE is present in +30 countries, but we clearly have the ambition to go where our customers are – meaning almost everywhere. We will keep partnering with high end, selective doors, within the professional network mostly (Spa, 5* hotel Spa, Clinics, etc). Lots more, but we prefer to keep it secret for now.
Thank you for the Interview!
You find more Codage Paris products on Bestkosmetik.